We used this paint on a project to paint new, but lightly rusted frames for bleacher backs prior to having galvanized fencing installed. This was part of a Lions Club project to improve safety of bleachers the club owns and maintains. The Hammerite rust cap paint went on well, and covered well. We had some runs and sags as a result of several inexperienced painters. The painted frames withstood the abrasion of installing fencing with bands and stretching. Interestingly, the Hammerite Aluminum color matches well, at least for now, with the galvanized fence.

Am restoring a 1929 steam locomotive; used Hammerite Gloss black to paint the frame (an on-going project.) Used the same product about 10 years ago on another engine about 10 years ago.Still looks pretty good. Engine sits outside in San Diego area sun.

This stuff will do the trick! It is super messy, not easy to work with, but, unlike most others that are advertised as rust stoppers this one really works! It dries glassy hard and so would chip easily if exposed to bumps and grinds but everywhere else it rules! Do not spray this paint, it will clog your sprayer in a hurry, and will render it useless, use a brush only. But it works like a charm.

It has been two years since I painted my rusty old 1987 boat trailer with Hammerite. After having sat in a marine salvage yard for (????) years, it was a pretty ugly thing...but the Hammerrite fixed her right up. There have been a spot of two I have had to touch up, but lets face it...once rusts starts there is no way to stop in entirely. This Hammerite is as close as I have come though. It is tough, doesnt chip, and does exactly what it promises!

This product or in its textured form does what it says. Provides a seald cap slowing the progression of rust, I thinned it with Xylol and painted my 1994 saab 900(grey)I used a 2.3mm tip. The paint sticks like glue and you can spray it too.I use it when ever I am doing auto rust repairs. After a stabilizer of some sort.Thank you, Dale.

I painted a rusty 12' boat trailer and it looks brand new. 2 quarts was enough to apply 2 coats with a little extra for touch up work later. The can says that drying time is 90 minutes but I did not realize that it takes 14 days for the product to fully cure. I tried to handle the trailer the next day and the paint was too soft.

paint dries instantly and will not level, impossible to maintain wet edge and even thickness coat. I could only make somewhat satisfactory finish with 50% Xylen mixed with the paint and applying thick coat. This paint can only be applied with air, or airless.

I used Hammerite Rust Cap Gloss red as a stop gap measure on a steel boat centerboard that I could not remove but was rusty and I didn't want to get worse. I used a rotary sander with a very coarse grit and removed all the scale and crud that I could. (I could only get to about half of the board.) Using a brush, I applied rust cap to the surface. The paint is thick and kind of heavy. It's easy to get it on too thick and create runs and slow drying. It covers very well. So spread the paint with just a moderate coat as evenly as you can. Applied properly you will be rewarded with a shiny, extremely tough finish. Unlike any I have seen before from any paint. Included is a photo of the board as I was dr0pping it this (2010) season. The Rust Cap is still bright and shiny! You better like it after it's on, because it's a son of a gun to get off! A year later I dropped out the centerboard for total refurbishment (the area with the Rust cap looked perfect), intending to grind off the Rust Cap. Well ... that was a tough job! This stuff has significant holding power believe me! I had a heck of a time grinding it off! If you want a tough, permanent finish on your rusty part or vehicle, give this stuff a try. I don't think you will be disappointed. Look at my photo. You can see half the board was painted, half not.

I bought a 12 year old, 45' flatbed semi-trailer with a rusty steel frame. Apparently it was factory painted over oily steel. The paint and rust scale were 3""+ in diameter. I used a air-powered needle scaler to knock off the surface debris. I blew off any dust with compressed air...that was it for surface prep. I brushed the Hammerite RustCap on with a 3"" synthetic brush at ~45 degrees air temp...a little cooler than they recommend. It took some doing as the paint is thick and daubbing it into all the rust pits took some time; 95% was vertical surfaces. I got lots of runs as can be expected with that cold temperature. With the pockmarked surface and the runs, it eventually looked like I used the hammered finish...I didn't care as long as the color was silver and the structural integrity of the trailer frame was going to be preserved. It took 1 gallon to cover 1 outside 45' frame rail and the ICC bumper. Cleanup was a snap using cheap lacquer thinner. It took a couple days to complete the whole trailer and I managed to only use 2 brushes to do it...the bristles tended to get bent with all the daubing of the paint into the nooks and crannies of the rusty metal. It's been months now since the paint job and no evidence of new rust forming, paint flaking off or any other problem. It took a lot of internet and yellow page searching to find this product but it was well worth it. I will use it again and highly recommend it to anyone who desires to cover existing rust with little prep work involved.

Over the years I have used many other outdoor paints and this is the best ever. Prep work is very little. Follow instructions, buy the thinner if it is hot apply 2 coats and your done.