TotalBoat
TotalBoat Polyester Laminating Resin
TotalBoat Polyester Laminating Resin
$35.99In StockSee Product Details
Quantity
1 qt contains 1 qt
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Product Details
TotalBoat Polyester Laminating Resin is used as a first coat for base coat applications. Without wax, this resin remains tacky to hold fiberglass fabric in place on vertical surfaces. Needs no sanding between coats. Laminating resin is excellent for saturating fiberglass fabrics. MEKP (methyl ethyl ketone peroxide) catalyst included.
Available in Quart, Gallon, and 2-Gallon Kits.
Info & Guides
Note: The Polyester Laminating Resin you receive will be either blue or pink in color, depending on the time of year your order is placed. Blue (winter formula) contains more promoter to help it set up more quickly in cooler temperatures; blue will still work in warmer temperatures, but will set up quickly. Pink is the summer formula, intended for use in warmer temperatures.
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including styrene, which is known to the State of California to cause cancer. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
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Reviews
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1 to 10 of 45 Reviews
1 – 10 of 45 Reviews
Most Recent
Dayton, OH.
5 out of 5 stars.
Tesin
7 months ago
Used it to rebuild transom. Worked great. No issues.
Helpful?
Piper City IL
5 out of 5 stars.
Polyester resin
7 months ago
Worked like I thought it would I had good results doesn't go far for material distance.but satisfied with the results.
Helpful?
Piper City IL
5 out of 5 stars.
Polyester resin
7 months ago
Worked great just keep going over the layups with out sanding
Helpful?
MA
5 out of 5 stars.
Excellent product
9 months ago
Great all-around product, needed to finish up fiberglass work around motor mount area of boat
Helpful?
Syracuse, NY
4 out of 5 stars.
Buy the gallon.
2 years ago
If you're buying laminating resin, get more than you need. I struggled to find this locally so I should have gotten more.
Helpful?
Wyoming
5 out of 5 stars.
Great product
2 years ago
Terrific for large layups. Sets up in a couple hours and can put multiple layers on in a day. Needs to be coated with finishing resin, wax, or PVA to cure or it will clog sanding pads pretty quick
Helpful?
Connecticut
5 out of 5 stars.
Solid Performer
2 years ago
Been through quite a few gallons of this by now, and never had an issue. Performance is great, reliable curing.
Helpful?
LA, CA
5 out of 5 stars.
Yes
2 years ago
Use it for repairing my boat. Works great. A little off topic. First gallon I ordered, it looks green. Second gallon, it looks a little purplish. not sure if it matter with anyone. I have no problem.
Helpful?
Inglis, Florida
5 out of 5 stars.
This is the best resin for the money.
3 years ago
Great quality resin at a reasonable price, delivered. What could be better?
Helpful?
surf city NC
4 out of 5 stars.
good but pricey
3 years ago
I live in NC on the coast and there is plenty of poly resin around for 25 -30 dollares a gal
Helpful?
1 – 10 of 45 Reviews
Questions
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1 - 10 of 32 Questions
Q: null I am doing a 2"" build -up on my swim platform to install hydraulic lift. 1st i need to stick it to the existing fiberglass what to use between the existing fiberglass and the new plywood? I am using (2) layers of 1/2""marine plywood (1) 1/2"" thick aluminum (1) 1/2' marine plywood 2"" total. I was going to bolt all (4) pieces together then laminate to existing fiberglass platform this is on the bottom side of the platform, so it's not seen when in the water. It will be submerged when lowered. The piece I am adding is 8"" wide x 36"" long x 2"" thick. Should I laminate between each layer? I would like to have the aluminum. plate be the last layer can I laminate over that?
2 years ago4 Answers
A: It says 1 gallon. But checkout day 2 pints 100 dollars.?????? Got pick one gallon. Regular resin. On can.??
Anonymousa year agoHelpful?
Q: null Hi polyester resin laminating resin how long can I wait to add another cote with fiberglass can I do 1 cote with fiberglass on my stringers and then another cote the next day or is that to long and i will have to sand again. thank you for any help.
2 years ago2 Answers
A: Bob, To address your question about how long you can wait to add another layer of fiberglass before you need to sand. I replaced my stringers and bulkheads with two layers of biaxial cloth but not before putting a radius at all the corners; a tedious job that is definitely worth doing because it adds strength and rigidity to the hull and makes it a lot easier to apply the glass without air voids. If you haven't watched a bunch of you tube tutorials like I did before starting this, the best advice I can give is precut All your glass (every piece for both layers) before mixing any resin. Besure to organize the piles so that you can move from one to the next without having to guess which piece comes next. Basically, have a good plan in place because once you start, complete the entire first layer, and then go right back to the starting point and start laying down the second layer until you are finished. If done in this manner, the first layer of resin will not be cured enough and will soften up again to allow a better bond and reduce the chance of air bubbles from peaks that have set up from waiting until the next day. Chances are, because glassing stringers is tight quarters, you will not sand down all the hardened peaks and your job will be riddled with air bubbles. If you do not have the time to go from start to finish like I described above, when I had to wait overnight to apply another layer of glass, I have had success with hitting the high spots with a 60 or 80 (whichever I had on hand), and then wipe it down real good with Acetone to soften up the resin, and then apply the next layer after the Acetone had a chance to fully evaporate. If you have to resort to this, make sure you have a lot of rags on hand because they gum up really fast. Helpful tips(?): If you have room in the boat, have everything in there with you to enable you to wet out your glass, roll a thin layer of resin on your application area, apply the glass, and work out the air bubbles. Since the working time is approximately 20 min., you will have to be moving quick, so having your tools at arms length will be a life saver. In a job like this, there is nothing worse than having a layer set up on you while you are searching for your fin roller. Best of luck Mike
2 years agoHelpful?
Q: null I am using this product to replace the stringers in a 22' Center console. I plan on recoating the bilge area of the boat with resin when filleting, then painting the bilge with bilge paint. I am not looking for a superior finish just a durable easy to maintain surface. Can I save time and work by skipping the sanding step or is sanding required before painting over this resin? Same question for this product with wax.
9 years ago4 Answers
A: Roll waxed gel coat over the last layer and be done
Anonymous2 years agoHelpful?
Q: null What do i add to polyester laminating resin to make it harden tackfree?
3 years ago1 Answer
A: You can add Flywax to laminating resin (it's in the dropdown menu on the TotalBoat gelcoat page). You can overcoat it with Evercoat PVA. You can cover it with PeelPly then remove the fabric after the resin cures. You can also apply finishing resin or gelcoat with wax over the top to get a hard finish. You will find complete instructions at this link on the website: https://doc.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/pdfs/TotalBoat/totalboat-polyester-resins-all-tds-10.28.21.pdf
3 years agoHelpful?
Q: null Is the Application Temperature the same for blue and pink? 50-95°F
3 years ago1 Answer
A: Hi there, Thank you for reaching out. Yes it is.
3 years agoHelpful?
Q: null Replacing a transom with Coosa, (2) layers of 3/4 Bluewater26. My thought was to laminate the two layers using PE resin and CSM between the Coosa. Should I be using a laminating or finishing resin for the bonding of the two Coosa layers? If using laminating resin is there an issue with getting a full cure, since no wax, gel coat, or PVA would be used?
4 years ago1 Answer
A: The laminating resin will cure when it is sealed in by the outer layers of fiberglass, resin and gelcoat.
4 years agoHelpful?
Q: null I am using your polyester resin on a CC that I am building. My question is I was thinking about using it to lay carbon fiber on my gauge panel as it appears to be UV stable (Non-Yellowing) and clear. Would this work or am I off base here?
4 years ago1 Answer
A: Laminating resin has an amber tint to it. You will get better results if you laminate the carbon fiber with TotalBoat High Performance Epoxy overcoated with TotalBoat Envy 2-part Clear Varnish. Check out this video demonstrating a carbon fiber lamination: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hTGMdbejtbM They used 5:1 epoxy but the 2:1 will give you a clearer finish.
4 years agoHelpful?
Q: null iS THIS THE BEST PRODUCT TO AAPLY TO PLYWPPD BEFORE ADDING A LAYER OF FIBERGLASS MATERIAL AND FURTHER, IS IT TE BEST TO COVER OVER OR SATURATE THE SUCCESSIVE LAYERS OF FIBERGLASS CLOTH?
5 years ago3 Answers
A: Depends on what you are trying to accomplish. A patch or a whole boat? If used I suggest a layer or 2 of mat before using cloth as a finish coat. For small projects I use the West system. There are multiple pubs covering either system. Perhaps Jamestown Dist has some in the back issues or try u tube.
5 years agoHelpful?
Q: null Hello, I purchased a quart of your laminating resin a year ago and was never able to use it because of family business. The can was never opened and I was wondering if the product is still good to use?
5 years ago1 Answer
A: If the resin is completely fluid with no lumps, then it's still good to use. If it has lumps with a thick, rubber-like consistency or if there are solid pieces in the resin, then it's no good. Bob
5 years agoHelpful?
Q: null Can I use polyester resin on a strip canoe I am building?
8 years ago6 Answers
A: Our company makes color dispersions for polyester, epoxy, polyols (urethanes), acrylics, alkyds, etc.so we are familiar with the chemistry. I also build strip boats and have experimented extensively with these different finishes in regard to outdoor durability. That includes the addition of hindered amines (HALS), benzotriazole and benzophenone UV inhibitors. Acrylic is the best polymer for outdoors, Polyester is second, 2 part urethanes 3rd and epoxy doesn't last 2 years in the sun. However, when it comes to physical properties such as impact, tensile and elongation, epoxy is best, then polyester, urethane and acrylic (brittle in coatings and difficult to handle). If you are going over wood wet out the glass with epoxy and apply a better UV stable coating such as polyester or urethane over the epoxy. You can also use an alkyd based or spar varnish with UV absorber, usually benzotriazole such as BASF Tinuvin 329 or 400 @ .5%. Chemists have made huge advances in the last 20-50 years in improving the durability of these coatings. These polymers are compatible so watch for and experiment with blends of epoxy, urethane, polyester & acrylic. Don't discount the water based products either. We have used water based epoxy on concrete floors that is almost as good as the bis-a & amine, and WB acrylics that are lasting on wood outdoors for 5 years. Unfortunately liability in our litigious society keeps many of the technical advances from public consumption. Monomers such as PMMA (acrylic), styrene (in polyester) and isocyanate in urethane are nasty and require special handling. Epoxy is relatively safe although some people do react to the amine catalysts.
Anonymous5 years agoHelpful?
1 - 10 of 32 Questions