Fuller Taper Point Drills - Regular Length

My experience with Fuller taper point bits began about 1998 (stamped on box) when I shelled out the premium dollars for the Fuller set #8 (10393008). I bought this set because I was not totally happy with the cheaper set of tapered point drills with the more open twist pattern (about one twist per inch). I found them springy, and more easily bent, limiting their use with power tools and just harder to use (more friction / more resistance) due to the longer face surfaces. The longer twist also means the point is more spade (spoon bit) than point and ""augers"" into the wood. Fuller bits at about two twists per inch are stronger, with less friction and two cutting edges at the point for better balance and hits the punch mark on center. Both sets are well used but I will not buy more of the open twist bits. The recent purchase of Fuller taper point bits was to round out available sizes but also to add some backup for a just in case moment. Fuller bits remain straight and work well with both electric and hand drills, and bit braces. The only disadvantage of the standard length bit is when using longer screws - there isn't much shank for the chuck to grab. Longer bits are available. Fuller quality is the go-to for finer work but can handle the tough stuff too.

I've always been very suspicious of tapered drills. The geometry of the drill does NOT match the geometry of a wood screw. The math, using the Forest Product Laboratory equations, indicates that holding strength is sacrificed. I needed to flush install 100 #6×¾"" silicon bronze wood screws. So I went with the W.L. Fuller HSS countersink and stop collar. I decided to throw in the tapered drill as a lark, to experiment with, knowing I could always pull the Stanley Screw-Mate parts and put them into the countersink. After careful alignment of the parts for my screw size, I drilled a test hole and installed the screw. I extracted the screw, cut the wood in half, re-installed the screw to check for THREAD ENGAGEMENT. This is the key feature to look for. Instead of the engagement shown in the W.L. Fuller catalog, I found 100% Thead Engagement! I was thrilled! I did not expect that!! My suspicion is over. I used the tapered drill to install all 100 screws, leaving the Stanley Screw-Mate parts on the shelf. Well done W.L. Fuller

I bought 10 or12 a year they always work great..

We purchased 1/8"" and 11/64"" diameter sizes of these drill bits for use in our production wood shop. They seem to be of high quality to us. We use them for #8 and #10 screw sizes, which is smaller than recommended. We did find out the 1/8"" are a bit small, especially for hardwoods, but the 11/64"" are perfect in our experience. In our opinion the sizes recommended on the chart are too large.

I've been using these bits for over 25 years and there are no better on the market.

Even though it is not made for metal, it is the only bit I have found that when placed into my dent it goes smoothly straight into a beginner hole then I can slowly move up to the bit size I need with bits made for metal. Other metal bits jump around too easily, the point stays in the dent perfectly.

I've been using Fuller tapers, c'sinks and bung cutters for over 25 years. Go-to tooling and plenty durable. Taper bits make useful holes for wood screws, but be heads-up on using short or long screws and the affect that tapered profile has vs. screw length. Also, the c'sink set screws need to be set securely, avoid slipping and unintentionally deeper holes. The best single-bit option out there.

The Fuller taper drill / countersink / plug system is superb.

Great for predrilling holes for wood screws, makes a great tight fit that is easy to drive screws into, no more guessing diameters and length or stripping screws

The tapered drills do an outstanding job with any woodworking project. They make driving long wood screws into hardwoods a pleasure. The Fuller brand drills are very high quality. I'm a fan.