Jamestown Distributors
G10 Fiberglass Epoxy Laminate Board
G10 Fiberglass Epoxy Laminate Board
$7.99In StockSee Product Details
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COM-G10-1/4-2x3 -- Backing Plate 1/4 inch x 2 inch x 3 inchCOM-G10-1/4-2x3-6 -- Backing Plate 1/4 inch x 2 inch x 3 inch - 6 PackCOM-G10-1/4-3x6 -- Backing Plate 1/4 inch x 3 inch x 6 inchCOM-G10-1/4-3x6-6 -- Backing Plate 1/4 inch x 3 inch x 6 inch - 6 PackCOM-G10-1/4-12x12 -- Backing Plate 1/4 inch x 12 inch x 12 inchCOM-G10-1/4-12x12-6 -- Backing Plate 1/4 inch x 12 inch x 12 inch - 6 PackCOM-G101423 -- Backing Plate 1/4 inch x 2 ft x 3 ftCOM-553209 -- 1/4 inch x 3 ft x 4 ftCOM-G101223 -- 1/2 inch x 2 ft x 3 ftCOM-553210 -- 1/2 inch x 3 ft x 4 ft
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Product Details
G10 fiberglass boards are made of a special glass epoxy laminate that has extremely high strength. G10 fiberglass is used in marine applications due to its superior strength, moisture resistance, and excellent fire and electrical insulation. Rated FR-4 for up to 285 F continuous operating temperature.
Fiberglass boards make excellent non-corrosive backing plates for high load deck hardware or bond to engine room bulkheads to hold mounting brackets. Commonly used to mount equipment on and patch boat hulls, boat covers, and canopies.
G10 is similar in strength and density to Starboard, but because it is made with epoxy resin, it bonds easily using most two-part epoxies. For topside use, apply a coat of urethane paint over the epoxy-based composite to minimize UV discoloration and breakdown.
Available in backing plate sizes and full sheets. G10 boards are sold in 1/4 and 1/2 inch thickness.
Info & Guides
Technical Information
- FR-4 Grade fire resistance
- Low moisture absorption
- Rated to 285 F continuous operating temperature, will not melt at high heat
- Resists chemicals
- High impact strength
- High tensile strength
- High dielectric strength
- High flex strength and dimensional stability
Reviews
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1 to 10 of 29 Reviews
1 – 10 of 29 Reviews
Most Recent
Long Island
5 out of 5 stars.
Excellent Strength
a year ago
I can use it for a backing as a single sheet or laminate two pieces together for extra thickness and strength. I use it to reinforce the deck where I mount winches, cleats, air scoops, and other hardware. It will wear the teeth down on a steel Saber saw blade in a short cut. Use carbide blades, circle hole saws, and router bits.
Helpful?
Seattle, WA
5 out of 5 stars.
Versatile Strong & Hard (but eats cutting blades)
2 years ago
Bought the 6 pc package of the 1/4 x 12 x 12 plates. Drills easily. Miter saw cuts well. Even sands easily. Eats jigsaw blades like there's no tomorrow - best I found is using blades for cutting sheet metal, but that still only gets you about 10"" per blade. Great material!
Helpful?
Ventura, CA
5 out of 5 stars.
I would certainly buy this product again
3 years ago
My sailboat had no backing plates on any of the stanchions or railing fittings. I found these products perfect for this application. The boards were easy to cut and drill and due to there construction would not suffer from exposure or any water intrusion.
Helpful?
Maine
5 out of 5 stars.
Plug
3 years ago
I bought this to plug a hole in the dash of my boat. The previous owner had cut a hole and I needed to fill it. Worked perfectly.
Helpful?
Illinois
5 out of 5 stars.
Backer plate for stem head on a dinghy
4 years ago
backer plate, plain and simple. I like how you can sand down the sharp edges of it to fit the contour of your application. It also drills easy, but it doesn't flex at all! Great backer plate, although if you're buying only one, the shipping will ding you. I found that a bit ridiculous.
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Chicago
5 out of 5 stars.
Tough material worked perfectly
4 years ago
Worked great for my use, replaced the bottom of my fiberglass boat exhaust. I used a jig saw to cut the material when through a lot of blades
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Chicago
5 out of 5 stars.
Tough material, perfect for my repair
4 years ago
I used the G10 board 1/4"" thickness to replace the bottom of my wet exhaust muffler. It was perfect. I cut the 12""x12"" x1/4"" piece into an 11"" diameter circle and glassed it in. I cut the material with a jig saw and finished the edges with a belt sander. It is hard and I did go through about 6 blades cutting out my piece. Expensive but worked great for my needs.
Helpful?
Chicago
5 out of 5 stars.
Yes
4 years ago
I received my 12""x12"" x1/4"" piece and had to cut an 11"" diameter circle out of it. I used a jigsaw. Burned up 12 Bosch jigsaw blades but it cut nice. Use a belt sander to finish it off. Very tough stuff. I'm using it to replace the bottom of my wet exhaust muffler. Nor I just have to glass it in.
Helpful?
PA
5 out of 5 stars.
perfect piece to have
6 years ago
Needed to make a frame for bilge vents. Replacement vents are a different width. The frame will be a type of ""picture frame"" I will fit into place around the existing cut out in the hull. I will recess the frame into the hull and epoxy into place.
Helpful?
San Francisco, California
5 out of 5 stars.
G10 fiberglass
6 years ago
I rebuilt the plumbing for my boat holding tank. I used the fiberglass board and PVC pipe instead of bronze plate and copper pipe. Should last my life! Cutting and drilling G10 is like cutting sheet metal. Easy.
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1 – 10 of 29 Reviews
Questions
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1 - 10 of 32 Questions
Q: null LOOKING FOR 6'' X 4' X 1/8 THICK G 10 BOARD 2 PCS.
3 years ago1 Answer
A: Hi, that is not a size that we have. We don't have anything in 1/8"" thick.
3 years agoHelpful?
Q: null I am installing new hatches in my deck. The original hatch were fitted into a molded fiberglass area that made them look flush. The new ones have a frame that I need to bolt in this notch area. I need to reinforce the area below. It's about 3' by 2' . Can I use this by glueing the board with thickened resin on the underside. The underside in unfinished fiberglass.
4 years ago5 Answers
A: Yes these little fiber glass patches will work perfectly for what you are doing.
4 years agoHelpful?
Q: null What is the surface finish like? Does it need to be sanded or does it have peel-ply on it?
4 years ago9 Answers
A: Has peel ply and smooth finish. Get Outlook for iOS< https://aka.ms/o0ukef>
4 years agoHelpful?
Q: null I'm planing on using G10 as a replacement piece for the bottom of my fiberglass muffler. The old bottom was fiberglass actually more resin than glass and crack and fell apart letting a lot of water into my bilge. I would cut it to size and glass it in. Should be better than new.
4 years ago4 Answers
A: What I used was very thick and rigid i used it to mount plumbing bonded it to the hull with epoxy. it worked great for my purpose. If you are repairing a rounded or curved muffler it might not be the best option.
4 years agoHelpful?
Q: null I'm planning to epoxy a backing plate of G-10 on the underside of a portion of a 3'x5' glass/plywood/glass access panel. I intend to reattach the leaning post to the panel afterwards. Will the G-10 accept stainless self tapping screws if I drill a pilot hole? Alternatively I was considering epoxying nuts into the panel for bolts with fender washers. Appreciate your thoughts.
5 years ago4 Answers
A: When mounting bolts in G10, I put the heads on the attached side. You must be careful positioning the bolts so they will line up with the attachment plate. A spacer almost as long as the exposed thread can be used to hold the attachment plate in position until the epoxy sets. (use small clamps) If the bolts have hex heads they will not spin after the epoxy sets. If the substrate is thick enough the heads can be accommodated in the substrate and not in the G10. Other than that I tap the holes or through bolt with washers.
5 years agoHelpful?
Q: null COULD THIS BE USED AS CORE TO REPLACE THE PLY IN MY JEEP FIBERGLASS BODY. IT SEEMS LIKE IT WOULD HOLD SEATS BETTER IN A ROLL OVER.
5 years ago3 Answers
A: G10 is much stronger than plywood so the swap would be appropriate. Use half the thickness of the plywood. John Marples, Multihull Designer, BSME
5 years agoHelpful?
Q: null Do you recommend using 5200 to bond G10 as a mounting plate in the engine room for hanging a shore power cord? Would thickened epoxy be a better choice?
5 years ago4 Answers
A: I would always go with thickened epoxy with G10 - especially if you are anchoring it to fiberglass. I have had 5200 come loose over time if it is in a hot dry place with lots of vibration , and it does not have some other fastening. G10 seems a little overkill for a power cable unless you are a large boat and this is a heavy cable and you need some structural support. G10 is like working with sheet aluminium. You can burn through a number of blades in your jig saw easily.
5 years agoHelpful?
Q: null Can I purchase a 6' x 6' x ¼"" or ½"" piece of Fiberglass sheeting. If so could you send me a quote?
6 years ago1 Answer
A: Largest we have is 3' by 4'
6 years agoHelpful?
Q: null I would like to use G10/FR4 for backing plates on my Niagara 35 sailboat. I wondering if 1/2 inch thick is enough strength for purposes? Also to bond together two 1/4 inch board , do I have to send it bonding surfaces ( boards have a high shine surfaces). Thank you Robert Mroz
6 years ago5 Answers
A: Robert, I bought these for backing plates on my Whitby 42. The ½ boards are great for that purpose. I'm no expert but, if bonding two pieces together, roughing up the surface will give the bonding agent something to grab on to. Phil
6 years agoHelpful?
Q: null What is the thru-thickness CTE? (I see that in-plane CTE is in the range of 9 to 13 ppm/C)
6 years ago2 Answers
A: CTE (coefficient of thermal expansion ) is something only the manufacturer is going know or be able to test for, it is measured in ppm for composites.
6 years agoHelpful?
1 - 10 of 32 Questions