TotalBoat Penetrating Epoxy Kits

Not recommended. Sat on oars like heavy varnish. Not much penetration. Probably should have thinned. Working pot life right at 15 minutes. Then smoke, heat and too hot to hold container. Very little penetration on sanded ash. Will have to sand and use varnish for final coat. Go with CPES from The Rot Doctor.

Product may perform perfectly well in some situations, however it has a short pot life in larger batches compared to Smith's CPES. We used this to saturate a still beam after removing surface rot. The pot life was shorter than CPES and it did not seem to penetrate as well. We lost quite a lot of the product in the pot before we could get it on to the wood. while the Total boat may be fine for pre treating wood, I would not give it a strong recommendation for rot treatment when high penetration into the wood is desired

This resin is very thin, like water, and I inject it into wood which has lost its structure due to termites, dry rot, etc. It saturates quickly, and cures overnight, creating an ideal base for applying thickened epoxy wherever voids need to be filled. The thickened epoxy cannot be absorbed into wood, and therefore no shrinkage occurs (surface remains flush).

Love this epoxy. Paint. Repair< Wood rotten. NO MORE.

Very easy to mix and use, ratio simply 2:1 No odors, easy cleanup

I used it as directed, mixed 2:1 and not thinned, on a transom I fabricated for a 14' aluminum boat. I prepped the birch plywood by sanding to 100 grit. Expecting good penetration and coverage, and not overly concerned with aesthetics, I did not bother to fill minor chips or dents. The epoxy produces a hard, flexible surface that is verifiably thick to the naked eye, and it seems to soak and plaster every bit of the wood, just as I wanted it to. It has little odor (even pleasant) and mixes and brushes very nicely. I applied the product at about 70'F (after warming the jugs in hot water for 15 mins) with some humidity. The first coat, which was applied too thickly, took about 48 hours to cure; the second thinner coat took about 24 hours. I will apply at least one more coat, and then will lightly sand and apply a marine-grade paint for UV protection. I did not intend an aesthetically pleasing clear coat, so the product is perfect for my needs. A woodworker wanting a pure clear varnish-type finish might find this leaves some bubbles and drips, or may have more talent and time than I to render a fine finish. To me, as a clear coat, it is not overly aesthetically pleasing, being kind of ""syrupy"" and heavy. However, one uses epoxy for its protection first, and this suits my needs ideally.

Very thick, even when thinned 50%. Poor penetration into stained wood, leaves a glossy hard finish.

I tried to order CPES and this product turned up in the search. I figured that I would give it a try. It is too thick to penetrate, even when I thinned it by 50% with acetone as recommended in the instructions. The product sits on top and has very little penetration. The CPES works much better, and I will find a new source to purchase that product. CPES gives excellent penetration and stabilizes the wood.

Used product on white oak tiller I was refinishing. Instructions were a little inadequate. After using product, Off Center Harbor posted video on using and finishing penetrating epoxy. Wish I'd seen it before using product. Emphasis on applying epoxy very carefully to avoid unevenness leading to unnecessary sanding would have been helpful. Had called Jamestown and been advised to use chip brush. Wish I'd rolled and tipped per OCH. Overall, however, I'm still pleased with product and results.

Used the epoxy to salvage 20 year old black cherry crotch slabs for a striking coffee table. The slabs had extensive cracking, checks, loose knots, soft & rotten spots & loose bark. Multiple applications of epoxy & sanding turned poor firewood into a beautiful coffee table.

This product failed to perform and created a mess that was difficult and expensive to clean and remove. Perhaps it was a bad batch or whatever. I was exceptionally careful in mixing to the exact proportions. I no not recommend this product for anything unless you enjoy cleaning up half cured epoxy goo.

Reconditioned marine Plywood flooring in a 16 foot runabout/fishing boat prior to installing new carpet. Used at regular strength. Coverage was excellent, and will extend life of the rebuild.

very disappointed with this product. I would not recommend it.

i used this product to seal the replacement stringers & flooring on a Bayliner floor replacement & also to ""beef up"" a soft spot in the transom area. This product does everything it claims. I was amazed at the penetration in the transom area & the end results were amazing. Just a couple tips...be sure to mix well for at least the recommended two minutes, preferably three. Doing this will give you consistent results between batches. Also, watch the clock! You have between 20 & 25 minutes pot time, so plan ahead. Again, great product that yields great results.

I use it to seal new teak work and repair a soft floor area. I intend to strip all the bright work and use this as a penetrating sealer (2 coats) prior to 2 finish coats of varnish.

Used on under side of kitchen cabinet around sink and dishwasher to keep dampness from swelling wood. New istalation, so it will be years before I know if it was effective. The fact that it penitrates the wood vs. Just coating it was why I decided to try this product. It remains tacky for more than 24 hrs at 70 F. This slows the project.

I used this to stabilize a large timber in a timber-frame I was building. Easy to mix, easy to apply, and penetrated like water. Really got into the pores and voids in my timber. It dried clear and was tack-free within 24 hours. Great product!

Very sensitive to mix ratio and temperature. Recommendations for solvent reductions to increase penetration questionable. Denatured alcohol causes chemical reaction

Pumps should be offered This would make mixing less messy

Used this product to repair soft bilge areas on a 1947 JAFCO utility and to preserve the interior of the hull under the beauty boards. First coat thinned 50/50 with denatured alcohol. Subsequent coats were full strength. Applied like varnish with a brush with sanding between coats. Used pint sized containers for mixing and six ounce plastic super market cups for delivery in tight spots.

After having gallons of experience using Smith's on our 56 Sea Skiff and on our 53 rotted windowsills at home, I thought I'd test your product on this bathroom repair. I could have just replaced the plywood but the punked ply went underneath the tub and past the wall studs; inaccessible without demolition. PE got to places my tools could not and now the floor is hard as a rock. Didn't want to wear my mask in the heat of August in a small bathroom. What a joy to just open the windows and use your product.

Don't think this is a product for 117year old window sills. It's not.

I used the penetrating epoxy on the base of a log railing. It was a perfect fit! The rotting portion of the log became solid and ready for years of continued use.

Covered the complet bottom of a 1961 Chris Caraft Sea Skiff. First coat used to penitrate and protect from both sea water and bildge water pririor to the application of West System Epoxy to specific areas (open seams gouges etc.). Second and in some areas a third coat was applied to achive a contiuous epoxy suface. Asetone was added in equal amounts to Base Resin for all coats.

I watched JD's video a copule of times to insure I didn't miss any steps. I applied it to wood trim on an '88 Whaler Outrage. It goes on like a very thick varnish. Allow at least 12 hours before doing anything to it, or with the boat. So far so good, although I won't know until next Spring whether it performs as advertised.

I found that the provided mixing cup was too large to accurately get the right proportions. My first batch took way to long to cure. I switched to a smaller cup with more precise gradations with better luck.

I was looking for a product that I could coat my new marine plywood to replace the rotted flooring in my alumacraft boat . I needed it to penatrate and protect the wood from water damage and mildew , also the moisture that gets in the underside of the flooring , BUT the main thing was to find a product that could be used indoors with out all the toxic voc's ! this stuff,Totalboat Penetrating epoxy was everything I could imagine and wish for . WOW ,thank you Jamestown Ditributors for delivering such a great product . Due to the cold weather in Upstate NY ,there is just no way I could have done this outside and with limited space in my garage there was no way I could use a product that had high VOC's . went on great and took a little over 2 days to dry completely but I am very pleased with the finish product .downfall it is not UV resistant ,but was just what I needed as I covered the finish top coat with carpet and I will have a flooring system that will last for years to come ,hands down , thanks a million.

This is really just a low viscosity epoxy. Not comparable to the original Smith's CPES - which is way way thinner. Both products have their use - just not at all the same.

Used on 15 year old outdoor bench renovation. Locatin is in an Arboretum in damp wooded Northwest area. Sanded, used Totalboat Epoxy, finished with teak oil/urethane.

Used product on top of sailboat. Core was rotten. Worked oretty good.