TotalBoat Thixo Flex Flexible Epoxy Adhesive

I had an external crack in Gelcoat mid boat and removed a small section of the Gelcoat and fiberglass down to wood. I added a wood hardened I flex flex applied in one coat, sanded smooth. Smooth, really great product. Stuck hard to edges of Gelcoat. It didn't sag and I laid it on pretty thick.

Just reattached an 18"" x 4"" x 3"" concrete trim piece which broke off the edge of my front porch floor slab. 1. Sure glad I read the reviews which recommended an 18 to 1 ratio of dispenser handle travel to plunger travel to make it easier to squeeze out the Thixo Flex. Don't know how you could do it with the standard 8 to 1 dispenser. But found an even better dispenser from ""SolidWork."" It has two selectable ratios, 12 to 1 and 24 to 1. I used 24 to 1. Made the job a piece of cake. 2. ""When finished, leave the static mixing tip on the tube to cure. For the next application, simply remove and replace the tip."" Quoted from the ThixoFlex cartridge instructions printed on the tube.

I watched Andy from Boatworks Today use this product on cracks in gelcoat and decided to give it a try. I am very pleased with the outcome so far and will be using it again on an extended project this fall.

USING THE TOTAL BOAT TUBE EPOXY TO REPAIR A SECTION OF DECK THAT WAS REMOVED FOR REPAIR BELOW THE DECK..HAD A PROBLEM WITH ONE TUBE, IT DID NOT MIX WELL FOR ABOUT A QUATER OF THE TUBE. I DO NOT KNOW IF IT WAS THE TUBE OR THE MIXING TUBE THAT WAS THE PROBLEM.

Great to get ""premixed"" epoxy but still some waste. Great for large projects that need at least 1/2 of a tube or more. Long open time. Needs a quality caulking gun to extrude the viscous epoxy

No. It was terrible. I bought the correct caulking gun and even soaked it in hot water. It was to thick. Very frustrating. Ruined my work time.

I used the Thiso fast cure to reattach the deck on my 15' sailboat. The deck was completely separated from the hull and the external joint sanded clean. After cleaning the seam with Thixo the deck was clamped for 24 hours. The result was amazing. The boat weighs 400 lbs however I believe I could lift the whole boat just by the deck alone. I'm not going to try this but, the ddeck/hull joint is amazingly strong. This is a great product and I will continue using it.

I am using this product (16 tubes so far, with 6 more on the way) to fill cracks in our peeled log posts and railings on our porch and 3 small decks at North Lake Tahoe, CA. Sun, low humidity, snow and low temperatures have caused them to dry out and crack, with some cracks over a half-inch wide. I strongly recommend you buy the NYC-250 18:1 thrust caulking gun to push the 2-part epoxy through the mixing tube. It costs 3 times more than the NEW-111(10:1 thrust) that was first recommended to me, but it works 3 times faster and has never jammed like the NEW-111. Note that the tubes are only about one-third full. I check with a measuring tape from the bottom of the outer cylinder to the bottom of the inner one to determine how much is left. The tube is empty when the measurement is 4 inches. Haven't been through a cold winter yet, but the epoxy had no problems with a couple of nights at 24 degrees.

I live in snow country at North Lake Tahoe, CA, elevation 6,300'. Many of us here have deck and porch railings and posts constructed with peeled logs 3"" - 7"" in diameter. Deep cracks occur in them after years of sun and snow and it is very expensive to replace them, so I was very lucky to discover Thixo Flex 2-part injectable epoxy. Although I'm having some challenges using the NEW111 10:1 ratio caulking gun, I'm optimistic about the NBC-250 18:1 ratio gun that I have ordered. Besides being strong, the epoxy is great since you can mask off anything that you don't want the epoxy to stick to. For me, I fold in half pieces of clear packaging tape, adhesive side to adhesive side, and tape pieces onto the bottom of the cracks and between the bottom of the posts and the Trex-like deck material under them with blue painters tape. Then I inject the epoxy, push it down to the tape on the bottom of the crack, let it dry and then pull out the tape easily. Haven't gone through winter yet, but it'll be 16F tonight and hopefully we'll have plenty of snow and cold nights this winter to test the repairs.

I used this to repair 8""x8"" wood lintels over windows, which had deep cracks. This flexible epoxy is harder to dispense from the tube than the standard epoxy. Also, I found an inconsistency in the color of the epoxy being dispensed from tube to tube. One tube came out dark brown while the 2nd came out tan. Both hardened up well. On a vertical surface it will sag some if filling a deep groove, but can be troweled smooth as it firms up.

Unlike me, read all the instructions before using. I discovered that the first bit of product out of the mixing nozzle may be resin/hardener rich and therefore not kickoff or set. Easy fix...Read the directions and it mentions this, then put about a 6-12' long bead into some paper and trash it. Then lay your bead out or apply as necessary and all will be great. For small batches, remove the cap and plug and squeeze Thixo into a cup, mix thoroughly and apply, or alternatively, mix in the cup and fill a small syringe and apply with the syringe. This is a great addition to my array of adhesives and I will enjoy having it available.

I generally use fiberglass and microBaloons this product was a little faster.. and easier to apply.

Excellent product.....excellent service from JD.....

Best product on the market, except I learned after cutting the cartridge open to get more out, you are not getting a full cartridge because the mixer inside takes so much space ,so when you purchase this product you are only getting about 5 -6 ounces of product, and because of that, my project fell well short.. Please send me another one at a reduced price!

Used the thixo to fill a void from a crack in the fiberglass collecting water on the forward deck and deteriorated the wood underneath. Pending rain and about 60 degrees outside and the Thixo set hard before the rain came (about 2 hours later) and sealed it up good. That spot was dripping water on my forward master cabin bed and making a mess. Next when we get good weather I will sand it out and paint, we'll see how that goes. Until then...

My only recommendation is to be sure and use the highest power caulk gun you can find. I found a 13:1 gun at my local hardware store which did the job but I would recommend finding an 18:1 if possible. This stuff is thick and takes some serious pressure to go through the mixing tip. Awesome epoxy!

I used this to fill stress cracks in the glass on the interior deck at the bulwark joint, stem to stern on an 18' dory. it came out of the tube VERY slowly, though I probably need a more powerful caulking gun and it was cold when I applied it.

I used this product to repair some cracks in the console of my pontoon boat. After opening up the cracks about 3/8 inches I applied the product using the special mixing tip and level it out with a wide craft stick. After it dried I sanded out then painted. Turned out great.

I would recommend you purchase a good caulk gun rated for adhesive with at least a 10:1 drive/torque ratio. This stuff is thick, and even a pretty good gun from Ace Hardware wrecked my hand. I ended up getting a better gun (Albion B26) for next time (26:1). Be sure to trim the tip to the desired bead size, as without doing so is is a very small bead. There is deceptively not that much material in the tube, that would be my only complaint.

I used this on some teak furniture pieces I made because I wanted to ensure the bond would hold the oily teak parts together permanently.

I had a teak cabin door that was basically destroyed by 250 lb man and a 8 foot wave. Needless to say the door needed major reconstruction. The epoxy blended well with color agent and the door went together with plenty of work time. 2 louvers were broken dead center and when glue cured the louvers remained flexible like the others. One day later you would never know it was destroyed so badly

I am in the process to replace some old and worn-down teak decking with Alaskan straight grain yellow cedar 1/2"" thick with 1/4"" caulked grooves teak caulking). It is extremely hard to get the Thixoflex out of the tube with the very best manual causing gun. I even bought a pneumatic gun etc., but that does not work, because of the way the two parts are placed inside the tube. There must be a better way!!! I don't use any screws, but only the Thixoflex which is working just fine. Just getting the 2-part material out of it's tube is very, very difficult!!

product was used to treat the hull-keel joint, and because it is a more flexable epoxy, it is perfect for this area.

I am rebuilding the transom on a Chris Craft Constellation. I have use this to fill old holes and to glue planks together to reinstall the subfloor under the teak deck. It creates a solid bond. The only real negative is that it can be REALLY hard to push through the nozzle even after warming it up and there is a lot of waste in the mixing tip. If you just need a small amount I have found it better to just squirt some out of the tube onto a mixing tray and stir it up yourself and then apply. Mix it thoroughly though. I have not had any problems with the curing or bonding doing it this way.

We like the product, it mixes well and in the proper amounts. We used it to attach the rail cap on our Penobscot 14 ""St. Jacques"" and to attach a skeg on the 1880s rowboat ""Barbashela.""