#10 Bronze Wood Screws Flat Head Frearson

There is night and day difference between these and the ones made in USA. But the american ones are cost prohibitave. About double. These are very soft bronze and easily stripped. But with these one can afford to strip-lose some and use another(s).

On time and accurate. Already installed a bunch of them

Fastening oarlock sockets on to the gunwale. The Fearson screws have the same problems of standard Phillips, I saw no improvement. The bit still want to turn out of the screws. Quality of the screws is fine.

Working on restoring a 1970 58 ft. Trumpy and needed an assortment of various sizes of silicon bronze screws. The screws are great however the packaging is disappointing! JD used to send all silicon bronze screws in cardboard boxes marked as to type and size. Now they are shipping them in plastic bags. This is not nearly as convenient for storage of the screws! So, now we have more plastic bags in the world and poorer method of storage. The only winner here might be JD as I'm sure their cost is less for plastic bags vs. cardboard boxes.

great screws, but i had to order some bits to drive them, didn't find any locally

I'm using these screws in my first venture into boat building. The delivery was prompt and the item is perfect.

Since I can't see a way to edit the original review, I'm adding a second review as an update. I've found a way to make use of the screws. First I should say I am (so far) driving these screws in places where I've already epoxied the joint and it has set while clamped. The wood is white oak and it's very dry. I say all that to say that there is zero movement in the joint and that the screw can't tighten it and can't sink into the wood beyond where I've drilled the countersink - so there's no good reason to crank down hard on the screws. I'm just putting them in as a secondary fastener. So here's what I did: 1) Drilled the pilot hole slightly larger. 2) Drilled the shank hole slightly larger. 3) Lubed the threads with soap. 4) Drive the screw with a brace & bit - stopping when the head hits bottom of the countersink. This isn't as satisfying as feeling like I've really snugged it down, but it's better than nothing. I would recommend - with reservations.

I haven't used SB wood screws since the 1980s - and I'm pretty sure I'm not stronger than I was 30 years ago - so the screws must be weaker. I've wrung off a #12 x 2 1/2 and now a #10 x 1 3/4. In both cases I was turning them in by hand with a brace and bit. I'm looking for alternatives.

We ordered these screws for use on an 1880s cypress rowboat that we are restoring for the Beauvoir Museum. Jamestown Distributors' Tech Help personnel have been great with advice for every step of the project, especially the caulking of the seams

These are Frearson head, not Phillps. Suggest you order the correct driver if you don't have one.